If you are a fan of fashion, history or drama, "The New Look" is worth watching. It is a biographical drama series about the rise of fashion designer Christian Dior and his rivalry with Coco Chanel in Paris during and after the Second World War.
The New Look TV series
The series premiered on Apple TV+ on 14 February 2024 and received positive attention from both critics and audiences. The season has ten episodes: the first three were released together, and the rest followed weekly.
The era and the characters
The series begins in German-occupied Paris and reaches into the post-war years – a turbulent and changeable period for France and for the whole world. After the end of the Second World War, the country recovered from the occupation, dealt with the punishment of collaborators and lived through major social and economic change.
The series follows the life and career of the talented designer Christian Dior. He created a revolutionary fashion line that changed the world of fashion and challenged the established style of Coco Chanel, one of the most influential fashion icons of the time. You can read more about the fashion house itself in the article Dior: the luxury brand that changed women's fashion.
The series has an impressive cast and a strong creative team. Ben Mendelsohn plays Christian Dior, portraying his genius, passion, insecurity and ambition. Juliette Binoche embodies Coco Chanel, bringing out her elegance, charisma and stubbornness. Maisie Williams plays Catherine Dior – Christian's sister, who was a member of the French Resistance and survived a Nazi concentration camp. Dior's fragrance Miss Dior was named after her. John Malkovich plays Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, who tried to keep French haute couture in Paris during the occupation. The series' creator and executive producer is Todd A. Kessler, an Emmy-nominated writer and co-creator of the series "Damages" and "Bloodline".
Themes and messages of the series
The series deals with themes that speak to today's viewers as well: the power of creativity, the clash of ideologies, the price of ambition, the role of women in society and the ethics of fashion. It also offers a fascinating glimpse into the history and culture of France and the fashion world, showing the beauty and brutality of the era, glamour and misery, art and politics.
A short summary and episode overview
Episode 1: Just You Wait and See
In Nazi-occupied Paris, Christian Dior worries about his sister Catherine, who is active in the Resistance. Coco Chanel, meanwhile, makes a deal that will haunt her for years.
Episode 2: The Hour
Christian tries to free Catherine from German captivity. Coco is sent on a secret mission and recruits her friend Elsa to it.
Episode 3: Nothing But Blue Skies
Coco has to bear the consequences of her relationship with the German officer Spatz. Christian's efforts to find Catherine take a tragic turn.
Episode 4: What a Difference
After the Allies liberate Paris, the punishment of collaborators begins – including for Coco. Christian is not sure he will ever be able to design again.
Episode 5: Give Your Heart and Soul to Me
Christian receives a job offer that changes the direction of his life: the textile magnate Marcel Boussac is ready to fund a new fashion house. Coco lives in voluntary exile in Switzerland and feels like an outsider.
Episode 6: If You Believed in Me
Coco is determined to stand up to her business partners and starts a war over her most famous perfume. Christian has to rethink his relationships, and one of his decisions could jeopardise the first fashion show.
Episodes 7–10
The second half of the season ("It All Came True", "I Love You Most of All", "Will You Return" and "What a Day This Has Been") takes the story to Dior's first collection and its worldwide breakthrough. The collection, presented in February 1947 with long, full skirts, an emphasised waist and soft shoulder lines, was dubbed the "New Look" by the press and brought femininity and luxury back to post-war fashion. At the same time, Chanel has to face her actions during the war years.
Some historical background: Christian Dior died of a heart attack in 1957 at the age of 52, and the creative direction of the fashion house was taken over by his young assistant Yves Saint Laurent. Coco Chanel, who had closed her fashion house at the start of the war, reopened it in 1954 and worked until her death in 1971. You can read more about her life and work in the article Introducing an icon: Coco Chanel's extraordinary journey.
In conclusion
"The New Look" offers a gripping insight into the intertwined lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, and a rich narrative that delves into the complexity of the war and post-war era. Because the series weaves together the artistry of fashion, personal struggles and historical events, it gives a nuanced picture of the development of haute couture in a time of change.
For fans of fashion history, "The New Look" is a real feast for the eyes, bringing to the screen the iconic designs that changed the whole fashion industry. Careful attention to historical detail together with the cast's excellent performances gives the characters and their journeys depth.
Who is the series for?
"The New Look" suits those who appreciate biographical dramas, and especially those with a strong interest in the world of fashion. For anyone interested in fashion and history, and anyone fascinated by the lives of iconic personalities, the series is both entertaining and educational. The blend of historical events and the glamour of the fashion world creates a unique viewing experience that goes beyond the boundaries of conventional genres.
Whether you are drawn to the charm of haute couture or the personal stories of fashion legends, "The New Look" offers a gripping and thought-provoking journey through the lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. If the series sparks an interest in the fragrances of these fashion houses, you will find both Christian Dior and Chanel perfumes in the ESSENSA online shop.
